There has been a lot of talk about skin barrier repair. All of a sudden skin barrier is in a central point of view, and everyone is talking about repairing the skin barrier. Even though it was always in focus as it’s the first thing we see when we look in the mirror or when we look at someone.
We all know that our skin is the largest organ in our body. But do we know how it’s built and what makes it? Today, I will explain all about the skin barrier and how to understand if the skin barrier is damaged.
Keeping a healthy skin barrier is something that we often overlook. But once it gets compromised, we realize how important it is. No one wants to be uncomfortable in their skin. Right?
In this article, we will get a deeper look into our skin barrier and why and how we need to take care of it.
What is a skin barrier?
Let’s quickly look at the anatomy of the skin.
The skin consists of three layers: epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue. The epidermis is a top layer that consists of 5 thinner layers. Then, we have the dermis, which houses all the blood vessels, sweat and oil glands, nerves, structural tissues, collagen and elastin. Lastly, subcutaneous tissue (sometimes called hypodermis) is a fat layer that protects our organs.
A skin barrier is the outermost layer of our skin – called the stratum corneum. Stratum corneum is the top layer of the epidermis. Scientists often describe the skin barrier as a brick wall. As in every brick wall, we have bricks and mortar. In this case, bricks are our skin cells made up of keratin. These skin cells are flattened and connected with the ‘mortar’.
‘Mortar’ that keeps our skin cells together is made of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids.
There are about 15 layers of this structure, and they are constantly shedding and being replaced with new layers. That ensures we always have the protection we need while getting rid of our dead skin cells.
The function of the skin barrier
A healthy skin barrier is there to keep us protected. It protects us from harmful microorganisms, toxins and allergens that may compromise our health. It also protects us from water loss. Without it, the water would evaporate from our bodies and leave us dehydrated. We know that water makes up about 75% of our body, and we need it to stay there.
On top of the skin barrier, there is a thin film called the acid mantle. The acid mantle is the chemical protection of the skin. It consists of water, sweat and sebum. And as the name suggests, this film is acidic. To be precise, its pH level is between 4.5 and 5.5.
The acid mantle is the one that is responsible for protection from harmful microorganisms and for maintaining the moisture of the skin.
What can damage the skin’s barrier
There are a lot of factors that can cause damage to the skin barrier, and it would be impossible to list them all. They can range anywhere from genetics to our lifestyle.
Genetics
Some people are genetically predisposed to conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, and atopic dermatitis. These people have to be more careful with their skin barriers.
Over-exfoliation
But, most often, the damage is done by improper care of the skin. Sometimes we use too many different exfoliating products, or even worse, we overuse mechanical exfoliators. Over-exfoliating can easily damage the skin barrier as it removes the top layer of dead skin cells that are protecting layers underneath. Exfoliating regularly is fine, but not overdoing it.
Alkaline products
Also, using too alkaline products can disrupt the pH balance of our skin and can cause irritations and weak skin barriers. We now know that the skin’s pH is between 4.5 and 5.5, and we should try and find products in that range. I know that most skincare brands don’t put those levels on their products, but most skincare is manufactured with that in mind. Just avoid harsh soaps and detergents (don’t use hand soap bars!).
Over-exposure to sun
Then, over-exposure to UV rays can also cause damage, smoking and pollutants in the air. Also, poor sleep quality and too much stress can be culprits for the poor skin barrier.
Psychological distress
We all know how important our mental health is and that in situations of prolonged stress, our health as a whole can decline. That includes our skin health and the barrier to our skin.
As you can see, there are a lot of possible reasons why our skin barrier isn’t in top shape. And we have to try and work on them to keep our skin healthy.
Signs of the damaged skin barrier
There are a few signs that can point out to a damaged skin barrier:
- redness
- itching of the skin
- dehydration of the skin (dry, scaly patches)
- acne
- sensitivity
- skin infections (bacterial, viral or fungal)
Overall, you know your skin the best. If all of a sudden, it feels tight, burning, and itchy, or you see scales flaking off, it might point out that the barrier has been compromised. As soon as your skin starts to feel uncomfortable, it’s time to step back and nourish your skin.
How to take care of the barrier of your skin
There is no other way but to be gentle. Just think before you do. Think of whether that action you’re planning to do is going to support your skin’s barrier or is it going to compromise it.
Here are the things you can do to keep your skin healthy:
- always use lukewarm water – avoid hot or cold water, which can irritate the skin
- when picking a cleanser, go for a mild one that isn’t too drying
- always wear an SPF (at least SPH 25) – sun damage can cause damage to the barrier of the skin
- don’t overuse exfoliators – avoid mechanical exfoliators altogether (the ones that have beads or fruit pits in them), and be careful how often you use chemical ones such as AHAs and BHAs or retinoids and anti-acne treatments. All of those can be drying, so try to find the frequency that works for you
- avoid perfumes in skincare – perfumes and essential oils can be irritating to the skin, so try to avoid them when you can
Skin barrier repair – how to
It happened! Your skin is red, feels tight and is dry and gets easily irritated. What now?
Everyone should have a few key products that can help with skin barrier repair. So, as I wrote above about the ‘brick and mortar structure, we can look at the mortar part to see what our skin needs. ‘Mortar’ consists of ceramides, fatty acids and cholesterol. Those are the ingredients we need to replenish in our skin. Water loss is a big issue with damaged barriers of the skin, so we also need to increase hydration.
So we need to look into getting products that are rich in ceramides, fatty acids and hyaluronic acid. And don’t forget about SPF. You can easily find such products, but make sure they are without fragrances or essential oils.
Ceramides
Ceramides are fat molecules found in the top layer of the skin. They make up about 30%to 40% of our epidermis and are essential for retaining the moisture in the skin and protecting it from harmful germs.
They prevent trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) by holding onto the water in the skin. Also, ceramides can protect us from the free radicals we get exposed to every day. Free radicals can cause a loss of elasticity in the skin. Ceramides also protect from irritants and external aggressors.
As we now know that ceramides make up a great portion of our skin, it’s essential to replenish them in the skin, particularly if the skin barrier is compromised.
Hyaluronic acid
Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance found all over the body. We can find it in our eyes, our joints and our skin. Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, a substance that helps the skin hold onto water. HA has the significant ability to hold onto the water of much greater quantity than itself. And as we can already find in our skin, products with HA might be the best option for rehydrating our skin. Hyaluronic acid makes the skin look and feel plump and makes it look younger.
If you decide to add a new product to your routine, I wrote a post about how to do that safely: Introducing a new skincare product into your routine – how and when to do it
Products to try for skin barrier repair
Cleanser
In an attempt to repair the skin barrier, CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser would be a fantastic choice for a cleanser. It is enriched with Sodium Hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid) to hydrate the skin. Also, it contains three ceramides (Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP and Ceramide EOP) to repair the skin’s barrier. Alongside those key ingredients, this cleanser contains Glycerin and Niacinamide to soothe and hydrate the skin.
Serums
CeraVe Hydrating Hyaluronic Acid Serum is a fantastic product for hydrating the skin. Hyaluronic acid (Sodium Hyaluronate) and Glycerine are formulated to bind the water to your skin and deeply hydrate. And three ceramides (Ceramide Np, Ceramide Ap, Ceramide Eop) and Cholesterol are repairing the ‘mortar’ part of your skin barrier.
VICHY Minéral 89 Hyaluronic Acid Hydrating Serum is another option for rehydrating compromised skin. With hyaluronic acid (Sodium Hyaluronate) and Glycerine, the serum deeply hydrates the skin, and with only 11 ingredients, there is no room for unnecessary ingredients and irritations.
Moisturiser
CeraVe Facial Moisturising Lotion has a few key ingredients that can help with skin barrier repair. It is a lightweight cream, so there is no heavy or tacky feeling making it perfect for those with normal to combination skin with a broken barrier. It has three ceramides (Ceramide Np, Ceramide Ap, Ceramide Eop) and cholesterol to help restore the skin, Sodium Hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid) to help hydrate and Niacinamide to help soothe the irritations.
First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream is slightly thicker than the previous one, so it would be perfect for those with dry skin. Because glycerin is high on the ingredient list, it has a strong ability to hold moisture in the skin. It also has ceramides (Ceramide 3) and oatmeal (Colloidal Oatmeal) to soothe and repair the skin. Lastly, the shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter), Squalane and Allantoin help soothe and moisturise the skin.
Sun protection
Avène Intense Protect SPF50+ Sun Cream is designed for those with sensitive skin. It has a lightweight consistency meaning it gets easily absorbed and leaves no white cast or oily, sticky residue. The formula is water-resistant and has broad-spectrum protection. With glycerin in the formula, this sun cream provides moisture, and antioxidants are there to protect against free radicals.
La Roche-Posay Anthelios Age Correct SPF50+ is another broad-spectrum sun cream. It has hyaluronic acid to deeply hydrate. And niacinamide is there to soothe and treat hyperpigmentation. The addition of the PHE-Resorcinol helps resurface the skin for a smoother and brighter complexion.
Conclusion – Skin Barrier Repair
Skin barrier repair can be a tough task, especially if we were mistreating for a while. But it is not an impossible task. To recap:
The skin barrier is the outermost layer of our skin, whose purpose is to protect us from harmful microbiomes and aggressors. It is also preventing trans-epidermal water loss, meaning it keeps us from looking like a dried raisin.
The skin barrier is often described as a brick wall. The bricks, in this case, are dead skin cells, and the mortar is cholesterol, ceramides, fatty acids and hyaluronic acid.
If you think your skin barrier might be damaged, it probably is. But if you are unsure, look for these signs:
- dry and irritated skin
- itchiness
- skin infections
- acne
- redness
- sensitivity
Skin barrier repair can be done with products containing ceramides, hyaluronic acid and cholesterol. The CeraVe range is a good choice for repairing the skin barrier. Whichever products you choose, make sure they don’t contain fragrances or essential oils, as they can be damaging to the skin barrier.
Choose simple products with minimal ingredient lists and avoid harsh cleansers. Pause your exfoliators for a while until you repair the barrier, and even after, exfoliate moderately.
I hope this post has helped you understand your skin better. Have you ever experienced a damaged skin barrier, and how did you repair it?
