Vitamin C is the most known vitamin, and it is essential for our overall health. Everyone knows of vitamin C’s benefits and the importance of it in our diet and supplements. But do we know the benefits of vitamin C for our skin?
If taken in supplement form, it’s beneficial for supporting our immune system, but it can also support collagen production in our joints and skin. And we all know how important collagen is, don’t we? It gives us that plumpness in our skin and a youthful appearance.
And that’s just one of the many benefits of Vitamin C.
But let’s start from the beginning.
What is vitamin C
According to the National Institute Of Health: ‘Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid, is a water-soluble nutrient found in some foods. In the body, it acts as an antioxidant, helping to protect cells from the damage caused by free radicals. Free radicals are compounds formed when our bodies convert the food we eat into energy.’
We also get exposed to free radicals in our day-to-day life, from cigarette smoke, air pollution and the sun.
As I mentioned above, Vitamin C also supports the production of collagen protein. Collagen helps with wound healing, joint health and plumpness of the skin.
Also, vitamin C helps with the absorption of iron in our bodies and boosts the immune system.
Benefits of vitamin C in skincare
There are a few benefits of vitamin C, and I’ll talk a little bit through each one.
Here are the main benefits of vitamin C:
- brightening
- hydrating
- evening out skin tone
- reducing redness
- reducing hyperpigmentation
- protects from free radicals
- promotes collagen production
It’s brightening
Vitamin C can help reduce hyperpigmentation that, as a result, leaves the skin looking brighter and healthier.
It’s hydrating
Healthline says: ‘Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, one of the main vitamin C derivatives used in skincare, has been shown to have a hydrating effect on the skin. It decreases transepidermal water loss, allowing your skin to better retain moisture.’
Evening out skin tone
This one is correlated with the brightening and reducing redness effects of Vitamin C. Your skin tone will look more evened out if the redness and hyperpigmentation are reduced.
Reducing redness
Vitamin C can help strengthen blood capillaries. And if you have fewer broken capillaries, you have less redness. It can also help with many inflammatory conditions by bringing down the inflammation.
Reducing hyperpigmentation
Vitamin C can help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting an enzyme that catalyses pigment melanin. Essentially, it prevents forming of new brown spots and reduces the appearance of existing ones.
Protects from free radicals
Free radicals are something that we are constantly exposed to. They are released as our bodies turn food into energy or by exposing our bodies to the toxins in the environment, such as smoke or UV light. That’s why it’s necessary to take in antioxidants in our food and put them on our skin. Antioxidants neutralise free radicals by pairing them with them so they can’t cause any harm.
Promotes collagen production
Collagen is a protein that is naturally found in our bodies. It is a building block for our body, and we can find it everywhere in our body. It gives our skin that healthy, plump look. But unfortunately, the levels of collagen deplete as we age. Vitamin C is a necessary factor in producing collagen. So it can help with the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Side effects
As everyone’s skin is different, everyone will have a different experience with vitamin C. Some people might experience some side effects. Those can include:
- itching
- redness
- skin irritation
- tingling
As someone with sensitive skin, I always take precautions when introducing a new product into my routine. That means doing a patch test before using it on the face.
In case there isn’t any reaction, I start by including the product every second or third day before I completely incorporate it into my everyday routine.
Also, it’s worth noting that with vitamin C, there might be a slight burning or tingling sensation that usually goes away after a few minutes. That is normal, and that’s why you need to give your skin some time to get used to the product. If those sensations are intense and don’t go away after a few minutes, discontinue use.
To do a patch test – put a little bit of a product on the inside of your forearm, and leave it there for 24 hours. If no reaction occurs, you can apply it to the face.
Forms of Vitamin C
Firstly, before I talk about the forms of vitamin C, I’ll talk about the packaging it comes in.
We know that antioxidants are pretty unstable molecules, and we know vitamin C is an antioxidant. So, that means that the packaging it comes in is crucial. We need something that will protect it from the environment and keep it stable. To illustrate, we are looking for a pump dispenser that will protect it from oxidizing and a dark bottle that will protect it from light.
If you see a vitamin C serum in a clear glass bottle with a pipette, don’t buy it. Or, even worse, a vitamin C cream pot where you need to dip your fingers in.
Now that we covered packaging – let’s talk about the form of vitamin C.
Ascorbic acid
The most popular form is ascorbic acid, also known as L-ascorbic acid.
That is the most researched form in terms of its benefits on the skin. It is the pure form of vitamin C, and it’s water-soluble.
L-ascorbic acid is the most effective form of vitamin C, but it’s also very unstable. It will easily oxidize if exposed to heat, light or air. So, don’t stock up on it. If you think you can use the same product for more than six months, you can’t.
Also, L-ascorbic acid in high concentrations can cause small pimples in oily and acne-prone skin and can cause irritations in sensitive skin.
But, if your skin is normal, this is probably the best form for you.
Products with ascorbic acid:
The most recommended vitamin C by dermatologists:
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide
This one is also a water-soluble vitamin C.
It’s more stable than ascorbic acid and can easily be converted into ascorbic acid in the skin.
There isn’t as much research on this one as there is on ascorbic acid.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Again, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is less intense but more stable than ascorbic acid.
It can help fight acne, which makes it perfect for oily or acne-prone skin.
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is one of the most stable forms of vitamin C. It’s a water-soluble form, and it’s also one of the most hydrating forms of vitamin C. It is perfect for sensitive skin types as it is very soothing and anti-inflammatory.
It’s also great for acne-prone skin as it prevents the oxidation of sebum, which can lead to blackheads and acne.
Also, MAP is a rare form of vitamin C that can be combined with niacinamide, which can help balance out skin tone and minimize pore size.
Sodium Ascorbate
Sodium Ascorbate is the sodium salt of ascorbic acid. It also converts into ascorbic acid in the skin, but that means it’s less potent than pure ascorbic acid. But it’s also less irritating and more stable than the pure stuff.
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C. It doesn’t irritate sensitive skin. It gets absorbed deeper into the skin and is a more stable form of vitamin C.
How to choose the perfect form of vitamin c for you?
After reading all that, you might be even more confused about which form is the best for you.
To summarise, if you have normal skin that’s not sensitive or acne-prone, and you want something to help fight signs of ageing, go for ascorbic acid. Look out for good packaging that will protect your serum, and look for a concentration between 10% and 20%. If you are just starting – go for the lower concentration and increase it over time.
For oily and acne-prone skin, go for sodium ascorbyl phosphate.
And for sensitive skin, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate would be the best choice.
Finally, always look at the ingredients list. Look out for supporting ingredients like vitamin E and ferulic acid. Vitamin E will help stabilize vitamin C, and ferulic acid helps lower the pH of vitamin C, making it easier to absorb.
Also, look at the position of vitamin C in that list. If it’s around the top of the list, you can be sure it has a good dose of vitamin C. But if it is towards the bottom, it probably means there is only a tiny bit of it, and it won’t be as effective.
Conclusion
There is a reason why vitamin C is one of the most popular ingredients in skincare. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, but it can be tricky to pick a good one. It is a prime example of how important it is to read the ingredient list and be aware of the concentrations of the products.
Also, consistency is the key to vitamin C. Don’t expect miracles overnight. And don’t forget to apply some SPF. There is so much hyperpigmentation vitamin C can reduce, but if you wear your SPF every day, you can prevent them from even happening in the first place.
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Are you using vitamin C in your skincare routine? Which one do you find the best?
