Lactic acid and retinol – ways to easily create the best routine

With so many ingredients and skincare products, it can get quite overwhelming to figure out what products work well together. Today, we will talk about one of many possible combinations – lactic acid and retinol. Each has fantastic benefits for the skin, and they both work very well on their own, but can they be used together? Let’s find out.

What is lactic acid

If we turn towards history, just for a moment, we will remember that Cleopatra used to bathe in sour milk to keep her looking youthful. She knew that milk had fantastic benefits for the skin. And we will now look into them.

Lactic acid belongs to a group of Alpha Hydroxy Acids or AHAs. It’s one of six acids in this group. 

The other five AHAs are:

• glycolic acid from sugarcane
• mandelic acid from almonds
• malic acid from apples
• tartaric acid from grapes
• citric acid from citrus fruit

But let’s focus on lactic acid.

As you can guess – lactic acid is derived from milk. To be more precise, it is made by fermenting milk products. But it doesn’t have to be strictly milk that produces lactic acid. It can also be caused by fermenting other products, such as cornstarch or sugar beets. 

That means that even though it is called lactic acid, there is no need for milk (an animal product). So, lactic acid can be suitable for vegans too. So don’t let the name put you off of this fantastic ingredient. 

I have a post about all the types of Alpha Hydroxy Acids here.

Benefits of lactic acid

The main effect lactic acid (or any other acid) has on the skin is exfoliating. That means removing the top layer of dead skin cells and exposing the ‘new’ or ‘young’ skin. That process can help make our skin appear brighter, healthier and smoother. But it also means that it is more photosensitive (sensitive to sun exposure). 

So, it’s imperative to always wear sunscreen when using lactic acid.

Even though all AHAs have that same benefit – exfoliation, lactic acid has something the others don’t. And that is hydrating properties.

Now, let’s talk about strength.

You’ve probably seen in drugstores that acid products come in different percentages. You can find some products that have 0.5% up to 20%. 

With lactic acid, when you use it at 5%, it provides lovely hydration, and a concentration of 10% or more makes the skin thicker and firmer, creating a smoother appearance and lessening fine lines and wrinkles. Either way, it is a fantastic ingredient to include in your skincare routine.

Benefits of lactic acid include:

• exfoliating – removes dead skin cells
• speeds up cell turnover
• brightens the skin
• smoothens the skin
• improves skin texture
• improves skin’s natural moisture factor – helps keep the skin moisturized

What is retinol?

Retinol has been one of the most popular ingredients in the skincare world for decades. They approved the use of retinol as an acne treatment in 1971. So there has been enough time (about 50 years) to do all kinds of clinical trials to prove its efficacy. Since they discovered that it increases collagen production in the skin, it became widely used as an anti-ageing and anti-acne ingredient.

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. We mainly use it in our skincare products (mostly serums and creams) for its anti-ageing and anti-acne effects. Most retinol products are available over the counter, but their stronger alternatives are available on prescription only. 

Now let’s dive a bit deeper into retinol.

Retinoid classification

Before you think I had a typo, retinoid is an umbrella term for all the types of derivatives of vitamin A. Retinol is just one of them. The other ones are:

• retinyl palmitate – weakest form
• retinol – a little bit stronger than retinyl palmitate
• retinaldehyde/retinal – stronger than retinol
• tretinoin – stronger than retinaldehyde
• tazarotene – stronger than tretinoin
• adapalene -strongest

I don’t want to confuse you with this classification, so I will try to keep this as simple as possible.

The list above is in ascending order. That means that the form of retinol on the top is the weakest. The list is moving downwards towards the strongest form. 

When you apply any of the retinoids onto your skin, they convert into retinoic acid. That is the primary goal of every one of them. But as retinyl palmitate is the weakest form, it takes more steps of that conversion than it takes the retinaldehyde. And adapalene doesn’t even need to be converted to be effective. That is why adapalene is prescription-only.

Another reason the last three forms of retinoids are not available over the counter is that they have more severe side effects than their weaker siblings. But more about that later.

Benefits of retinol

So as I said, retinol is one of the most popular ingredients in the skincare world. Its primary use is as an anti-ageing ingredient. What retinol does is that it neutralizes free radicals in the skin that can damage our collagen. Alongside protecting our collagen, it can also help stimulate new collagen production. Doing so makes us look younger for longer. 

Lastly, retinol can help speed up cell turnover. By doing so, our skin is constantly producing new, ‘young’ skin cells that can again help make us look younger for longer.

The production of new skin cells, the production of more collagen and the protection of existing collagen all play a part in reducing fine lines and wrinkles and keeping our skin looking smooth and healthy.

Benefits of retinoids:

• Retinoids can reduce fine lines and wrinkles – they do so by increasing collagen production in the skin
• They can help with the skin’s firmness – due to the extra collagen
• They can improve skin colour – by stimulating the production of new blood vessels
• Retinoids can fade age spots
• Retinoids can soften skin
• They can help prevent acne breakouts – by increasing cell turnover
• They can reduce acne scars – by producing more collagen
• Retinoids can fight free radicals in our skin due to their antioxidant effect

Side effects

Even though retinol is one of the best ingredients you can use on your skin, it is not for everyone. Retinol comes with a list of do’s and don’ts, and if you don’t follow them, you can have serious side effects.

That is why it’s always recommended to start at the lowest strength only a few times a week and slowly increase the frequency of use and concentration of the product.

The best method is the 3-2-1 method. That means applying retinol product every third night for the first three weeks. Then every second night every two weeks, and then every night after that. This principle will give your skin enough time to get used to retinol without unwanted side effects.

Those side effects include:

• red skin
• peeling skin
• dry skin
• irritation

Can lactic acid and retinol work together?

Yes, lactic acid and retinol can work together. Together, they hydrate dry skin, help clear acne and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Lactic acid and retinol complement each other very well and provide a brighter, healthier complexion.

Even though they have similar effects, lactic acid and retinol don’t work in the same way. Retinol is the star ingredient here which speeds up cell turnover. That strengthens our skin and keeps it looking bright and healthy. But even though it speeds up cell turnover, it doesn’t actually exfoliate. That is because it can not break the bonds that hold dead skin cells to the skin’s surface.

And that’s where lactic acid comes in. Lactic acid can break the bonds and remove dead skin cells. Not only that but (depending on its concentration) it can have hydrating properties. 

You can think of retinol and lactic acid like a superhero and its sidekick. By using them together, you give your skin the best possible chance to look healthy and glowing.

Benefits of lactic acid and retinol together:

• smooth skin texture
• brighter skin
• reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• reduced appearance of acne
• thicker, stronger skin
• improved skin texture

How to use lactic acid and retinol

You have probably heard many warnings on how to use retinol and how to use acids. But no one really talks about how to use them together. So let’s have a look at that.

Firstly, in case you don’t know, let’s look at the best practices when it comes to using retinol.

As I explained above, if you are only starting to use retinol, the best approach is to do the 3-2-1 method for a few weeks. That way, you will give your skin enough time to get used to retinol without suffering the side effects.

Now for some retinol rules:

• Never apply retinol to damp skin. – After washing your face, dry it well or even better, wait for 20 minutes before applying retinol
•  Apply a pea size amount of retinol on your face – that’s enough, don’t overdo it.
•  Avoid your under-eye area – that area is much thinner than the rest of your face and can’t tolerate the same retinol you use on your face. If you want to use retinol on your under-eye area, get a product specifically for that area, there are plenty of retinol eye creams out there.
•  After applying retinol, wait for at least half an hour before applying your moisturiser. And make sure that moisturiser is your basic moisturiser, without any exfoliating acids or too many essential oils and perfumes.
•  Always wear sunscreen in the morning – retinol can make your skin more photosensitive, so protect it.

Let’s now look at how to use lactic acid:

• never apply on damp skin – same as with retinol
• avoid under eye area
• apply it only a few times a week until your skin gets used to it – you can follow the 3-2-1 method
• if using in the morning, always follow with sunscreen – as it exfoliates the skin, it makes it more sensitive to the sun

So now that we know how to use lactic acid and retinol individually, we can look at how to use them together.

As I said, if you are new to either of these ingredients, it’s best to start with one (I recommend retinol) and keep using just that one until your skin gets used to it. Once that happens, you can start including lactic acid in your morning routine, also a few times a week. 

Only when your skin gets used to both ingredients separately – you can start using them together. 

The best way to use lactic acid and retinol together is:

1. Have the products your skin tolerates and loves. If you have been using both products separately for a while, there won’t be any surprises in terms of unexpected allergic reactions. Don’t be impatient and buy any retinol and lactic acid and start using them together at the same time. Make sure your skin and the product have enough time to get to know each other.
   
2. Start slow. As I said, slowly introduce each product into your skin routine for a few weeks before you think of using them together. Ideally, the whole process should take about 12 weeks (six weeks for retinol and six for lactic acid). And for this pairing, I would also recommend the 3-2-1 method. We have to do everything we can to prevent possible irritations. So use your retinol every night as you are already, and then every third night, add a lactic acid product. Do this for three weeks and then increase it to every second night for two weeks. After that, you are ready to use it every night.
   
3. Lactic acid first. Now that we understand how each of these products works, we can see why it makes sense to use lactic acid first. It will exfoliate the skin, get rid of those dead skin cells and clear the way for retinol to do its magic. Once you apply your lactic acid, let it soak in completely before applying retinol. It would be best if you wait for 30 minutes before you apply retinol.
   
4. Always, always wear SPF. You should be wearing SPF every day of the year anyway, especially if you are using exfoliating products every night. It would be a shame to lose all the progress you made with your skin by not protecting it from the sun.

Benefits of using lactic acid and retinol together:

• brighter skin
• reduced blemishes
• reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
• smoother skin
• glowing skin
• even complexion

Using lactic acid and retinol can have fantastic benefits for the skin. Because retinol doesn’t exfoliate but speeds up cell renewal, it needs help with exfoliation. It needs a little push exfoliating product (in this instance, lactic acid) provides to reveal that beautiful bright, and glowing skin. Otherwise, dead skin cells can pile up, and instead of having a bright and glowing complexion, you might end up with dull and tired skin. Also, as lactic acid has some hydrating properties, it’s the perfect choice to use before retinol as it can prepare the skin better.

Who can use lactic acid and retinol together?

Not all acids are for everyone, and not everyone can use retinol. So imagine using both together – definitely not for every skin type. Most definitely not for very sensitive skin. Also not for dry or dehydrated skin. All of these skin types should work on their issues first before they think of using lactic acid and retinol together. That means sensitive skin should work on strengthening its barrier, and dehydrated skin should work on hydrating. But that’s not to say that using lactic acid and retinol won’t help these skin types – it will. But you have to do it slowly to prevent damaging your skin. Remember -slow and steady wins the race.

On the other hand, oily, combination or normal skin can probably tolerate this combination much better and have more leeway in incorporating the two products into their routine. Some caution should still be applied but less than in more sensitive skin types.

Generally, lactic acid and retinol would benefit every skin type by making it stronger, preventing acne and reducing fine lines and wrinkles.

Conclusion

Lactic acid and retinol together provide fantastic benefits for the skin. They can benefit every skin type, no matter what the issue is – from brightening and evening complexion to clearing acne and other blemishes to reducing fine lines and wrinkles. 

But caution has to be taken when introducing these two products in the same routine. It’s best to keep them separate for a while before you start using them at the same time. By doing it slowly, you will avoid unwanted effects such as peeling of the skin, irritation, and red or dry skin. 

If you have never used either lactic acid or retinol, start using retinol a few times a week and slowly increase the frequency of use. Once your skin tolerates retinol – start using lactic acid, but only in a morning routine. Do the same – a few times a week first until you can use it daily.

Only when your skin tolerates both products should you use them together. 

And once you get to the point where you can use lactic acid and retinol together, you will be amazed at how good your skin looks.

Do you use lactic acid and retinol together? If not, will you try after reading this post?