In the last 15 years, hyaluronic acid has become very popular. There is almost no brand that doesn’t have it, at least in one of their products. We can find it everywhere, from being the main ingredient in injectable fillers to serums, creams, lotions, and even makeup like foundations, lipsticks and blushes.
But why is it so popular?
What is hyaluronic acid?
Hyaluronic acid (or HA) is a substance naturally found in our bodies. We can locate around 50% of it in our skin, but it’s also in our joints and eyes. The primary role of HA in those areas is to lubricate.
It is essential to know that hyaluronic acid is not an acid in the same sense as other acids like salicylic or glycolic acid. That means that it doesn’t strip our skin of dead skin cells.
HA is a humectant (a substance used to reduce moisture loss). It helps our cells retain moisture, and by doing so, it makes our skin look and feel plump and soft.
Paula’s Choice says that ‘hyaluronic acid is also a postbiotic, an ingredient naturally occurring as probiotics found in skin’s microbiome break down. Researchers believe that this synergy with skin is another reason application of hyaluronic acid leads to healthier, younger-looking skin: it strengthens and helps rebuild the unique microbiome on your skin.’
What is fascinating about it is that a single gram can hold up to 6 litres of water. Not only that, but it’s pretty clever. It can regulate the moisture within the cells. That means it can control how much water it brings to which cell, so it doesn’t drown cells in water.
What does it do?
According to PubMed Central, the functions of HA include the following:
- hydration,
- lubrication of joints,
- a space-filling capacity,
- the framework through which cells migrate,
- regulates several aspects of tissue repair,
- provides the framework for blood vessel formation
Types of Hyaluronic Acid
Three types of HA molecules can be formulated into skincare:
- hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
- sodium acetylated hyaluronate
- sodium hyaluronate
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is a low molecular weight, chemically chopped-up version of the naturally big molecule HA. It is highly purified and very stable. Like other forms of HA, it helps rejuvenate and hydrate skin.
Sodium acetylated hyaluronate is sometimes also called super hyaluronic acid. It is a derivative of sodium hyaluronate and has a higher ability to retain moisture than HA. Its main functions are to moisturize, repair the skin barrier, improve skin elasticity and leave skin smooth.
Sodium hyaluronate is a salt that’s derived from HA. It has the same function as HA but can penetrate deeper into the skin and is more stable. That is because it has a low molecular weight.
Generally speaking, the lower the molecular weight is, the better it works. HA with lower molecular weight will penetrate deeper into the skin and hydrate the skin for a longer time.
Unfortunately, manufacturers don’t put the actual molecular weight on the bottles, so we can’t know that. They only put which form of HA they’re using. At least, with that, we have some insight into the product’s effectiveness. I would say that the product with all three forms of hyaluronic acid would be the most effective.
Who needs hyaluronic acid?
When we are young, we have a lot of HA in our skin, and our skin can hold onto water and moisture. That’s why kids’ and teenagers’ skin looks so plump and healthy.
Unfortunately, as we age, the production of HA (along with collagen and elastin) decreases. That results in a visible loss of firmness, volume, hydration, and plumpness.
Ageing is not the only reason for decreasing HA. An unhealthy lifestyle, smoking, an unbalanced diet and stress can also deplete the levels of HA. We can see many more young people having fine lines and wrinkles today compared to before. They have to work on proper skincare and preserving good levels of HA.
Also, anyone with dehydrated skin can only benefit from using some form of HA, preferably in serum. I explained how to recognize whether you have dry or dehydrated skin here.
How to use it
As I mentioned above, HA is a humectant, a natural magnet for water. And it needs to pull water from somewhere. That’s why one of the most important things is to apply it on DAMP skin. Because otherwise, if you apply it on dry skin, it will pull the moisture out of your skin.
Another significant step is to seal it with moisturiser on top. That will provide moisture for ha to absorb into the skin.
How I use hyaluronic acid
- Wash my face with my face wash and dry it
- I use any of the mineral water sprays and finely mist my face with it (at the moment, I’m using the La Roche Possay Mineral Water Spray)
- I apply my Hyaluronic Acid serum (Hada Labo Tokyo Super Hydrator)
- Mist my face again
- I apply my moisturiser or fluid.
Products to try:
My holy grail:
Hada Labo Tokyo Super Hydrator Lotion (I love this product because it has all three types of hyaluronic acid in it, it lasts for ages, and I can really see the difference since using it)
The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5
La Roche-Posay Hyalu B5 Pure Hyaluronic Acid Face Serum
Paula’s Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster
Paula’s Choice Hyaluronic Acid Booster 15ml €41.00
If you want to learn more about me you can do so here.
Do you use HA? Have you a favourite product with this ingredient?
