Alcohol is a single name used for many different types of alcohol. And all the alcohols in skincare have various purposes and effects on the skin.
The purpose of alcohol in skincare
The most common role alcohol has as a solvent for other ingredients. It allows other ingredients in the product to be mixed. And when used as a preservative, it allows the product not to spoil quickly. Lastly, some forms of alcohol have moisturizing properties.
Alcohols are sometimes necessary for cosmetics. They dissolve plant extracts that we can’t dissolve in water or oil. So that is why it is important to use reputable and certified manufacturers who pay attention to the origin of the alcohol.
You have all probably heard about the ‘good’ and ‘bad’ alcohol, but do you know what exactly is it?
The ‘bad’ alcohol in skincare
We call them ‘bad’ because they dry and irritate our skin. ‘Bad’ alcohol can cause premature ageing of the skin. And can also weaken the skin’s barrier and make it susceptible to viruses and bacteria.
Bad alcohol is often used in skincare for oily/problematic skin because it gives that instantly drying, mattifying feel. But that feeling won’t last long. Because it is so drying, it will make the skin produce even more sebum to counteract the dryness. And it will be hard to stop that vicious cycle.
The most common ‘bad’ alcohols are:
- SD Alcohol or Denatured Alcohol
- Propyl Alcohol
- Isopropyl Alcohol
- Ethanol
- Methyl Alcohol
If you see these alcohols listed in the top 6 ingredients, you can expect them to aggravate and damage your skin. By using them long-term, they can weaken the skin barrier, cause dryness and damage the way the skin renews and repairs itself.
The following picture is a product marketed for blemish-prone skin. Alcohol Denat is the 5th on the ingredient list. So this product will do exactly what I mentioned earlier. It will dry out the skin and make it produce more oil as a result. That will continue as long as the person is using the product.
The ‘good’ alcohol in skincare
Also known as fatty alcohols, they are derived from plant sources and can benefit the skin.
We use them in skincare for a few different reasons:
- they provide a pleasing texture to the product
- as a preservative
- to moisturize the skin
The most common fatty/good alcohols are:
- Cetearyl Alcohol – gives the product a nice texture and helps stabilize the product (it can cause irritations or be comedogenic)
- Glycerin – gives moisture (desirable ingredient)
- Cetyl Alcohol – is made in the process of saponification of some plants. It gives the product a nice texture and stabilizes it (it can be very comedogenic, so be careful in case of acne-prone skin)
- Stearyl Alcohol – similar to Cetyl Alcohol
- Benzyl Alcohol – aromatic alcohol found in plants, serves as a fragrant ingredient or solvent.
- Lauryl Alcohol
- Lanolin Alcohol
We don’t need to avoid these types of alcohol. But, as with any ingredient, we should always be cautious in case of sensitive skin.
The following picture shows a list of ingredients in a product for sensitive skin. Cetearyl Alcohol is in the 2nd place but doesn’t contain any ‘bad’ alcohols so it is safe for use but it would be a good idea to do a patch test first.
Top tips
‘Alcohol-free’ doesn’t mean there isn’t any alcohol – it just means that there is no SD Alcohol or Denatured Alcohol. So always make sure you read the full list of ingredients. And don’t just believe what it says on the front label.
Natural cosmetics will also have alcohols (as we consider it a natural ingredient). Sometimes even more than conventional skincare, as they don’t use parabens or other preservatives.
Remember, if you see SD Alcohol, Methanol, Ethanol, Alcohol Denat – AVOID
But if you see Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl, Cetearyl, Benzyl Alcohol – THEY ARE NOT HARMFUL.
But they can be comedogenic and block the pores.
Do you check the ingredients of the products you put on your face? Have you noticed any bad alcohol in your products?
If you want to learn more about me click here.
