I’ve already mentioned how essential clean skin is, and I won’t do it again. But I do know how tough cleansing acne-prone skin is. You might feel like you need to scrub and scrub and use drying ingredients to dry out your acne, but that might have a contra-effect. If you dry out your skin too much, it will compensate by producing more oil to fight that dryness. And you will end up with more clogged pores because of the overproduction of sebum. So, let’s look at this guide to cleansing acne-prone skin and see what we need.
Cleansing routine
In my previous guide to cleansing sensitive skin, I explained how I think everyone should have three cleansers.
One cleanser for the morning and two for the evening double cleanse. The cleanser we use in the morning should be milder because our skin is not too dirty when we wake up. We only need to refresh it, wash off any remaining skincare from the evening and wash off bacteria we picked up from our pillowcases.
And, in the evening, we need an oil or balm cleanser that will melt our makeup and SPF and a second, stronger cleanser that will clean our skin and remove all the melted dirt.
If you don’t want to buy three cleansers, you can re-use the second cleanser from the evening routine in the morning as well.
And if you feel like you want to wash your face more than twice a day, I wrote a post about that: How often should I wash my face?
Even though your skin might be acne prone or you’re struggling with acne, your skin type can be anything from dry to oily or even sensitive. So, to figure out which cleanser will work best for your acne-prone skin, you need to figure out what skin type you have. And if you’re unsure how to do that, I already wrote a post about it. Those cleansers or active ingredients are generally similar, but the concentrations would be different. Those with sensitive or dry skin would generally pick lower concentrations, and those with oily skin can go for stronger products.
Another thing to note is that if your skin is sensitive or you are young and already struggling with acne, you can use these ‘stronger’ face washes only a few times a week or just in the evenings to prevent further irritation to the skin. Everyone is different, so you should listen to your skin to see what suits it best.
Ingredients to look out for
Picking a cleanser for cleansing acne-prone skin can be tricky. We want something that will deeply clean and de-clog our pores. But it won’t be too strong to completely remove all moisture from our skin.
So, let’s look at the best ingredients in a face wash for acne-prone skin:
- salicylic acid
- benzoyl peroxide
- AHAs
- enzymes
- zinc oxide
- niacinamide
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is by far the number one ingredient to fight acne. It belongs to the beta hydroxy acids group (BHAs), and its primary purpose is to exfoliate. Salicylic acid naturally occurs in white willow tree bark, sweet birch and evergreen tree oils. So if you see willow bark on the ingredient list, know that it contains a small dose of salicylic acid as well.
As I said, the primary role of salicylic acid is exfoliation. Exfoliation is a process where the top layer of dead skin cells is removed, which enables the blocked puss in your acne to get released. Salicylic acid can also help with reducing inflammation.
In products that you can get over the counter, the maximum allowed dose of salicylic acid is 2%. For anything stronger, you will need a prescription. But those two percents are enough to make a difference on your skin.
With 2% salicylic acid, this cleanser is at the upper limit of salicylic acid allowed in an OTC product. That makes it a fantastic product for combating breakouts. And with added niacinamide, it can, over time, help with sebum production in the skin and can help reduce redness and inflammation.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
Alpha hydroxy acid is a group name for six different acids. Each has a slightly different effect, but they all have one thing in common – exfoliating effect. Some of them are stronger, and some are weaker, so you can pick one that will suit your skin best.
Generally speaking, there are three AHAs that have the best effect on acne. They are glycolic acid, lactic acid and mandelic acid.
Glycolic acid is derived from sugar and, alongside exfoliating, can also help regulate sebum production in the skin.
Lactic acid is derived from milk and can help with hyperpigmentation, has an antimicrobic effect and can help regulate the skin’s pH.
Lastly, mandelic acid is derived from almonds and can help with hyperpigmentation and acne.
I wrote a post about 7 types of acids in skincare and how to choose the correct one, so you can read more about acids in skincare.
This Neostrata cleanser has a whooping 18% glycolic acid making it a very strong cleanser ideal for acne-prone and oily skin. It also has added 2% lactobionic acid (PHA), which is fantastic for discolouration and enlarged pores.
It is definitely one of the stronger cleansers, and I would recommend using it only a few times a week to start and see how your skin reacts to it.
Medik8 is known to have fantastic products, and this is just another one of them. This cleanser is full of many different exfoliating acids. There are alpha hydroxy acids – lactic and mandelic, and beta hydroxy acid – salicylic acid.
They have also added glycerin to provide some moisture for the skin.
There is no alcohol in this product, but there are essential oils, so if you are sensitive to them, skip it.
Slightly different from the previous two, this cleanser has only one exfoliating acid – glycolic acid. With a concentration of 4.9%, it still provides exfoliating effect without being too harsh on the skin. It also has added vitamins A, C, and E that provide an antioxidant effect. Herbal additions of calendula, chamomile and aloe vera soothe and moisturise the skin.
This cleanser is milder than the rest, but it still isn’t suitable for sensitive skin. You could try it maybe a couple of times a week, but it suits normal to combination skin better.
Enzymes
Similarly to acids, enzymes also work by exfoliating the skin. They break down the protein called keratin which keeps the dead skin cells together. That keratin would break down on its own eventually, but enzymes help speed things along. Enzymes aren’t the best in treating a lot of congestion, so for severe acne, you will need other exfoliating agents, such as acids. But enzymes would be an excellent solution for sensitive, acne-prone skin.
The most commonly used enzymes in skincare are proteolytic and protease enzymes which break down proteins (think keratin protein keeping dead skin cells together). Sometimes, enzymes from the fruit can be used too. Those are usually bromelain from pineapples, papain from papayas and amylase and maltase from bananas.
This Elemis cleanser has a patented Tri-Enzyme technology combining papain, protease and subtilisin that ‘eat away’ dead skin cells to reveal cleaner and more radiant skin. They use a mild Sodium Lauroyl Sarocisnate instead of the harsh SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulphate) that still provides a nice thorough cleanse.
It also has white truffle extract that soothes and supports the skin microbiome.
This cleanser is more suitable for sensitive skin, but there is some fragrance in there, so do a patch test first.
Zinc oxide
Zinc oxide is most commonly used in mineral sunscreens as one of the SPF filters. But it has other benefits too. Zinc oxide is also antibacterial and can support wound healing. Those properties make it a great ingredient in products for acne. Because it’s antibacterial, it can reduce infections in the skin with acne when acne becomes open and can spread further on the face.
Zinc can help with tissue healing; zinc oxide in skin care can help heal wounds from acne and reduce redness and inflammation.
Zinc oxide is not often found in face washes. It usually has a better effect in spot treatments or lotions.
And this product doesn’t have zinc oxide but zinc pyrithione. That is just a different form of zinc, but it has similar properties.
This face wash is antibacterial and provides a deep, gentle cleanse. It is a fantastic product for preventing blackheads.
And it doesn’t contain sulphates such as SLS and has no fragrance.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide, or vitamin B3, is a water-soluble essential nutrient. And because it’s water soluble, you can often find it in toners, essences, water-based serums or gels.
Niacinamide has many benefits, but one of the biggest ones is its ability to regulate sebum production in the skin. And that can majorly impact the appearance of acne on the skin. It also has an anti-inflammatory and soothing effect.
Because of its ability to regulate sebum production, niacinamide can also reduce enlarged pores.
This Foaming Cleanser is another fantastic option from CeraVe. It’s a bit milder than the previously mentioned one as it doesn’t have any acids.
We have ceramides in here, which support the skin’s barrier, and niacinamide which calms the skin and regulates sebum production.
This cleanser would be an excellent option for someone who doesn’t have too much acne but has oily skin with enlarged pores and the occasional breakout.
IMPORTANT THING TO NOTE: Most of these ingredients are exfoliating and, as such, they make our skin photosensitive. That means our skin becomes more sensitive to sunlight and can burn easier. If you use acids when cleansing acne-prone skin, it is absolutely essential to wear SPF and avoid excessive sun exposure while using these ingredients. ( We should be doing that anyway, especially if we use exfoliating products.)
Ingredients to Avoid
Although you might be inclined to get at your acne with full force, using the strongest products you can find, that approach might backfire and cause more damage. Using harsh, drying products for cleansing acne-prone skin is one of the biggest mistakes I see people make. Even though you need a product that is strong enough to fight your acne, it still has to be gentle enough not to aggravate the skin, especially if you have sensitive acne-prone skin.
So, let’s look at the ingredients that might be a good idea to avoid:
- alcohol denat
- fragrance/parfum
- essential oils
- isopropyl palmitate and isopropyl myristate
- sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS)
- coconut oil
- cocoa butter
- algae extract
Alcohol denat
Also called SD alcohol or Denaturated alcohol, this ingredient is one that we should all avoid. It is generally used for its ability to make products lightweight and spread effortlessly. And because it has antimicrobial effects.
It is most often used for oily, acne-prone skin because it gives an instantly mattifying, drying effect. But over-drying your skin will only contribute to the production of more oil, so it’s just not worth it.
Fragrance/parfum
Similarly to alcohol, fragrance can also irritate the skin. Perfumes can make already red and inflamed skin even redder and more irritated. It is there only to mask the smell of the product or to make it smell better, and it doesn’t have any actual benefit to the skin. And as such, I think it’s best to avoid it, especially if your skin is already inflamed.
Essential oils
Once again, essential oils are added to skincare products to naturally fragrance products. But even though they are natural, it doesn’t mean that they won’t irritate the skin. Actually, most essential oils can irritate the skin. But, some essential oils can bring down inflammation and calm the skin. Those are tee tree oil and lavender oil.
Isopropyl palmitate and Isopropyl myristate
Isopropyl palmitate is an emollient that makes the product feel softer on the skin. It’s usually used as a thickening agent, and because of that, it can clog pores in those with oily skin.
Isopropyl myristate is a synthetic oil made to maintain the skin barrier and enhance the penetration of the product into the skin. That can help your active ingredients to get deeper into the skin to their magic. But the issue is that Isopropyl myristate can cause sensitivity and clog pores causing breakouts.
Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)
Sodium Lauryl Sulphate is a surfactant. Also, it is a foaming agent used most often in many products meant for washing, such as shampoos, body washes and face washes. And even though SLS provides great lather, it should be avoided in those with acne-prone skin. SLS can irritate the skin and disrupt the skin’s natural barrier, which can lead to more breakouts.
Coconut oil
Coconut oil is often mentioned as being excellent for the skin. But it actually isn’t. At least not for acne-prone skin. About 90% of coconut oil is saturated fats such as lauric and palmitic acid. And about 2% is made of polyunsaturated fatty acid called linoleic acid. And while linoleic acids have great benefits of supporting the skin’s barrier and reducing inflammation, the majority of coconut oil composition is comedogenic. That means that it can clog pores and cause breakouts. And even though it stays on the skin for less than a minute when used in a face wash or oil, it’s best to avoid it to minimise the chances of breakouts.
Cocoa butter
Similarly to coconut oil, cocoa butter is also an emollient. It is a thick substance that has fantastic hydrating properties. But unfortunately, it is highly comedogenic and can block pores and cause breakouts. Those with acne-prone or oily skin should avoid cocoa butter in all of their skincare.
Algae extract
Algae have a lot of different benefits for the skin. They can help fight inflammation, regulate sebum production in the skin and have antioxidant and brightening effects. There are many different types of algae, and not everyone is suitable for acne-prone skin because some of them can clog pores and cause breakouts. So, it’s best to avoid it if possible.
Conclusion
I will say the same thing I said in my Guide to cleansing sensitive skin – it would be impossible to list every single ingredient that is or isn’t suitable for acne-prone skin. If you take anything from this post, take the information that for treating acne-prone skin, you need some chemical exfoliator. So look for ingredients such as BHAs (salicylic acid), AHAs (glycolic, mandelic or lactic acid) or enzymes if your acne-prone skin is more sensitive. Exfoliators in your face washes will help remove that top layer of dead skin cells and enable your other skincare products to penetrate deeper into the skin. Also, they will help the trapped dirt and sebum to come out.
And as far as avoiding certain ingredients goes, try to avoid harsh and sometimes unnecessary ingredients, such as alcohol denat and perfumes. Even if you only remove those two ingredients from your skincare routine, your skin will already be much less irritated. And after those ingredients are gone, you can keep track and see if any other ingredients don’t work well for your skin.
That being said, if you do use or love a product with one of the ingredients from the list to avoid, that’s fine. Everyone’s skin is different, and what may work for you may not work for someone else.
I hope you find some beneficial information in this guide to cleansing acne-prone skin and that it helps you pick the best face wash for your skin.
